Friday 4 April 2014

News from the Front: Upstairs at Ten Bells, Spitalfields (SN)

84 Commercial Street, 
London 
E1 6LY
reservations@tenbells.com
07530 492986

I took a trip beyond Liverpool Street Station to find this little gem beyond Spitalfields Market.  In a part of town which is trendy and full of students sits the fore-square and long-lived Ten Bells pub on a corner like all the best pubs are. And like every pub and every shop round Spitalfields, it has an air of insouciance downstairs which it cadres off with the help of it's customers, but our target was overhead.  There is a distinct and Victorian bareness on the stairs - Dickensian .  Even upstairs the attention is to an air of neglect - but it's a very comfortable one.  And soon broken with smiley staff and candles and short well balanced menus - all aided by a rather invigorating rhubarb margarita.

My dining companion - Linda - and I chose the Crispy Monkfish Cheek, Fagioli & Winter Tomatoes - which had a tasty foam topping, crispy batter and a very satisfying bean soup beneath.  I plucked a bottle of Chablis from the wine list - and the party for two was underway.

Beef Shin, Pearl Barley & Nettle Risotto, Spring Onion & Bone Marrow 

Roast Guinea Fowl, Wild Garlic Mash, King Oyster Mushroom & Bacon 
Linda's shin beef had a wonderful lustre and smell (and taste by all accounts) - I have no idea and none of the patience required to cook shin beef to get that effect. Nettle risotto is surely one to try at home though.

My guinea fowl was as sweet and juicy and tender paired superbly with garlic mash and mushrooms.

I had a very nice cheeseboard and Linda had a chocolaty pudding which I struggled to identify because it wasn't there for long.  We had tea and coffee and chatted for a long time with a never ending supply of water and smiles from the lovely staff.

Cocktails and wine pushed up the price of what was a meal of exceptional value and in the cool evening air walking back to the station we past people standing outside pubs looking uncomfortable when they could have been inside eating guinea fowl and drinking Chablis - which I think means we won.  Lovely night :-)