Kopapa

Kopapa

32-34 Monmouth St,

London

WC2H 9HA

020 7240 6076

http://www.kopapa.co.uk

SN:  After delicious cocktails at Asia de Cuba we made the 4 minute walk up St Martin's Lane to Kopapa up by Seven Dials.  Its a pretty standard set up for a London Restaurant with a long bar as one enters and mixed size tables which filled very nicely as the evening went on.  The decor is stark.

The four owners of Kopapa have created a superb eatery (described as a cafe and restaurant) with fusion cooking and fine wine but it's not a New Zealand restaurant -  it hints at an association but not enough to give it an individuality. Kopapa has various meanings in the Maori language and I think there's a similar ambiguity about the place. The strap line "kai me int" (food and drink) could sum up every restaurant in the borough. The website features on 6th February "Waitangi Day 2016" and a more localised menu which may be the time to see Kopapa celebrating it's roots.  It's a bit lacking in character for me.

Flat bread, olives and baba ganoush

SN: The staff were exceedingly helpful with the balance of dishes and we opted to do a traditional starters and main.  Three small plates and two mains with a side order of veg.  It was clear from the very first mouthful of baba ganoush we were in for a treat.  The fresh taste and succulent texture was a cut above some of the slop we've been served with in town.  The flat bread was very appealing too.

Crispy Squid, zhoug dressing, salad of pickled lemon, fennel & peppers

SN: My Crispy squid was a very pleasant: light and neither slimy, rubbery or overbearingly fishy.  I much prefer these sticks to rings and the light, spiced tempura was delicate and beautifully unobtrusive aside from a satisfying crunch.

Smoked freekeh & potato kibbeh, sweetcorn hummus, pomegranate, walnut tarator

LM: I was extremely happy to have another portion of the flatbread with my starter. Generous portions of hummus and tarator (which according to google is a yoghurt and cucumber dip, so I have no idea where that was!) and some really nice textures and tastes.

Pan-fried Cod, parmesan polenta, green beans, herbed pea bisque, walnut muhammura relish

SN: My Mum might well have found this combination just one too many taste sensations.  There is much to relish on the plate and the eye dwells on the contrasting brittle salt crystals, deep dark fried skin and the clean white of the fish above a sea of green.  I paused to savour the polenta which had beautifully measured hint of parmesan: a taste which could elbow its way to dominate the flavours.  The muhammura and bisque made it a complete taste adventure though.  I loved it. We shared some beautifully cooked broccolini with tamarind glaze which was lovely and crunchy shallots don't add a lot least of all crunch.

Quinoa & pumpkin gnocchi, haloumi, pine nuts, spinach, tomato chermoula

LM: My gnocchi nearly defeated me - the quinoa made them sturdy with an unexpected crunch, but the flavour balance of the pumpkin, toasted pinenuts and tart tomato sauce was too good to leave anything uneaten so I made my way through it. It's great to see such interesting vegetarian options on a menu - but the portions were probably a little over-generous.

SN:  The wine list is varied and a great excuse to try some New Zealand wine - though many of the descriptions focus on flavours to the point where they become indistinguishable.  The Riesling (Which I chose by grape) was a happy foray.  It's a bright and zesty wine from a family vineyard in the Waitara Valley and it had a hint of that sweetness which balanced the strong flavours we were enjoying.

Coconut crumble, chia seeds, mango, green tea, lychee & coconut sorbet

LM: I managed to find room for dessert, going for what was probably the lightest option on the menu. The coconut crumble was divine - sweet, sticky and light. For me the green tea was a bit overpowering, but it's not a favourite taste of mine and it was clearly marked on the menu so that could well just be down to bad choice on my part!

SN: I had cheese and biscuits which were nice enough but the accompanying relish was just over-powering and unpleasant.

Overall

SN: I enjoyed much of the food at Kopapa - it's been on our list for a long time and I'm glad we went. There seems to be something missing though - perhaps a problem of identity and it's maybe fuelled a slight excess in the dishes, they almost bend over backwards to fascinate or just add one twist too many to what are already luscious combinations.  Sometimes less is more if it has confidence and feeling - our previous visit to Andrew Edmunds is a case in point. If pressed I'd say it feels too much like a business venture. Finally whilst the wine list probably has some real gems in it the descriptions border on parody. 

Andrew Edmunds

Andrew Edmunds

46 Lexington Street

London, W1F 0LP

0207437 5708

http://www.andrewedmunds.com

SN: Andrew Edmunds is a very well known and much loved restaurant on Lexington Street right under the "SOHO" stamp on Google Maps. It describes itself as part of old Soho and feels like it - the building is 18th century with a tiny door that I mistook for a window .  It was established in 1986 - which makes it ancient compared to many of the businesses in that area.  It is gratifyingly simple and beautiful in so many ways.  Simple in terms of layout, dishes, wine list and attention to it's customers, beautiful in execution of the food, the manners of the staff and in that so many of the sight lines end up with a small delicate and supremely painterly still life scene at the end of them.  It bustles but is never rushed or focused on anything but the customer.  The menu - handwritten on one page is a wonder of understatement about the fare.

The wine list is a conversation piece in itself - not least for price comparison - but I'm seldom drawn to so many wines out of a combination of both curiosity and value.  We ended up with this Renato Fenocchio, Barbaresco, DOCG 2009 to meet the challenge of our unpairable food choices ;-)

Spiced Cauliflower, Pomegranate and Labneh

LM: a delight of a dish - gorgeous vibrant colours, the cauliflower still had some crunch and worked beautifully with the creamy labneh and sharp pomegranate. Nice generous portion too.

Cornish Sardines, Harissa Sauce, Preserved Lemons and Coriander

SN: Nothing special about sardines you might think but i) they were fresh, ii) they were not over-cooked and iii) the flavourings were very nicely balanced.  Lovely surprise to find them on a menu and so well delivered.

The visual experience is an under appreciated part of of eating - not I think the dreary pattern making of new cuisinists but something harking back centuries of artistic endeavour to capture nature's bounty when it's ready to be consumed.  There's a measured fecundity about the plates, familiar visuals from a long time ago and a simplicity too.  It's very appealing.

Pavé of Venison, Tokyo Turnips, Beetroot and Walnuts

SN: My Pavé of Venison was the best venison I've tasted in a very long time (sorry Edwin's this was better!).  There's nothing complicated about enjoying good food done well when the starting point is such wonderful source materials.  I'll say no more but it would put all the steaks on all the menus in this postcode in the shade.  Tokyo turnips are a bit of a rarity on menus too but such a natural match for a robust meat.  The greens we ordered were floppy and shiny and full of goodness, greenness and a fantastic taste.

Risotto with Radicchio Trevisano, Chestnuts & Ricotta Salata

LM: The risotto was a thing of joy - no token veggie dish. Lovely and creamy with the radicchio giving it a good bite. I probably would have enjoyed my dessert a fraction more had the risotto been slightly smaller, but only have myself to blame for wading through the whole generous portion.

Bamboozled

I think perhaps the photo of LM tells you all you need to know about the quality of the pudding.  There was also an eloquent silence of concentrated appreciation...

Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream

SN: I had a selection of cheeses from Neal's Yard which were unnamed.  We finished up with some Pedro Ximenez and went out into the clear night air hoping we can go back again soon.  It was nice to get such a positive and confident from the kitchen when I popped down to thank them.  The whole place is busy, but not hassled, quality, but not full of itself and everywhere is beauty.

LM: One of the things I really appreciated about our visit was the honesty about table timings. We knew we had a two hour slot which made it so much easier to plan out courses and drinks. Service was rapid towards the end of the meal but I didn't feel hurried at any point, and our waiter was happy to advise on how long desserts would take. I can absolutely understand the need for maximum table times in a restaurant this small and the staff manage it brilliantly.

Overall

Top marks to Andrew Edmunds - not that they need them from us, but the meal couldn't have been bettered in a place that couldn't be more delightful.

Best bits: 

SN: For me I suspect much as I loved the food, it was the look and feel of the place.  It cares about what you see on the plate but way beyond too and I was just enchanted after the a tour. 

Summary

SN: When I say it's quintessentially English I mean that beyond our current preoccupation with the word.  It is a place full of history from Gillray to old Soho and it bridges those centuries with aplomb.  It is confident and straightforward in what it offers and does so with a nod to London long past.  I admire this singular and unsentimental vision: I've seldom felt so at home in a restaurant.