Kopapa

Kopapa

32-34 Monmouth St,

London

WC2H 9HA

020 7240 6076

http://www.kopapa.co.uk

SN:  After delicious cocktails at Asia de Cuba we made the 4 minute walk up St Martin's Lane to Kopapa up by Seven Dials.  Its a pretty standard set up for a London Restaurant with a long bar as one enters and mixed size tables which filled very nicely as the evening went on.  The decor is stark.

The four owners of Kopapa have created a superb eatery (described as a cafe and restaurant) with fusion cooking and fine wine but it's not a New Zealand restaurant -  it hints at an association but not enough to give it an individuality. Kopapa has various meanings in the Maori language and I think there's a similar ambiguity about the place. The strap line "kai me int" (food and drink) could sum up every restaurant in the borough. The website features on 6th February "Waitangi Day 2016" and a more localised menu which may be the time to see Kopapa celebrating it's roots.  It's a bit lacking in character for me.

Flat bread, olives and baba ganoush

SN: The staff were exceedingly helpful with the balance of dishes and we opted to do a traditional starters and main.  Three small plates and two mains with a side order of veg.  It was clear from the very first mouthful of baba ganoush we were in for a treat.  The fresh taste and succulent texture was a cut above some of the slop we've been served with in town.  The flat bread was very appealing too.

Crispy Squid, zhoug dressing, salad of pickled lemon, fennel & peppers

SN: My Crispy squid was a very pleasant: light and neither slimy, rubbery or overbearingly fishy.  I much prefer these sticks to rings and the light, spiced tempura was delicate and beautifully unobtrusive aside from a satisfying crunch.

Smoked freekeh & potato kibbeh, sweetcorn hummus, pomegranate, walnut tarator

LM: I was extremely happy to have another portion of the flatbread with my starter. Generous portions of hummus and tarator (which according to google is a yoghurt and cucumber dip, so I have no idea where that was!) and some really nice textures and tastes.

Pan-fried Cod, parmesan polenta, green beans, herbed pea bisque, walnut muhammura relish

SN: My Mum might well have found this combination just one too many taste sensations.  There is much to relish on the plate and the eye dwells on the contrasting brittle salt crystals, deep dark fried skin and the clean white of the fish above a sea of green.  I paused to savour the polenta which had beautifully measured hint of parmesan: a taste which could elbow its way to dominate the flavours.  The muhammura and bisque made it a complete taste adventure though.  I loved it. We shared some beautifully cooked broccolini with tamarind glaze which was lovely and crunchy shallots don't add a lot least of all crunch.

Quinoa & pumpkin gnocchi, haloumi, pine nuts, spinach, tomato chermoula

LM: My gnocchi nearly defeated me - the quinoa made them sturdy with an unexpected crunch, but the flavour balance of the pumpkin, toasted pinenuts and tart tomato sauce was too good to leave anything uneaten so I made my way through it. It's great to see such interesting vegetarian options on a menu - but the portions were probably a little over-generous.

SN:  The wine list is varied and a great excuse to try some New Zealand wine - though many of the descriptions focus on flavours to the point where they become indistinguishable.  The Riesling (Which I chose by grape) was a happy foray.  It's a bright and zesty wine from a family vineyard in the Waitara Valley and it had a hint of that sweetness which balanced the strong flavours we were enjoying.

Coconut crumble, chia seeds, mango, green tea, lychee & coconut sorbet

LM: I managed to find room for dessert, going for what was probably the lightest option on the menu. The coconut crumble was divine - sweet, sticky and light. For me the green tea was a bit overpowering, but it's not a favourite taste of mine and it was clearly marked on the menu so that could well just be down to bad choice on my part!

SN: I had cheese and biscuits which were nice enough but the accompanying relish was just over-powering and unpleasant.

Overall

SN: I enjoyed much of the food at Kopapa - it's been on our list for a long time and I'm glad we went. There seems to be something missing though - perhaps a problem of identity and it's maybe fuelled a slight excess in the dishes, they almost bend over backwards to fascinate or just add one twist too many to what are already luscious combinations.  Sometimes less is more if it has confidence and feeling - our previous visit to Andrew Edmunds is a case in point. If pressed I'd say it feels too much like a business venture. Finally whilst the wine list probably has some real gems in it the descriptions border on parody. 

Andrew Edmunds

Andrew Edmunds

46 Lexington Street

London, W1F 0LP

0207437 5708

http://www.andrewedmunds.com

SN: Andrew Edmunds is a very well known and much loved restaurant on Lexington Street right under the "SOHO" stamp on Google Maps. It describes itself as part of old Soho and feels like it - the building is 18th century with a tiny door that I mistook for a window .  It was established in 1986 - which makes it ancient compared to many of the businesses in that area.  It is gratifyingly simple and beautiful in so many ways.  Simple in terms of layout, dishes, wine list and attention to it's customers, beautiful in execution of the food, the manners of the staff and in that so many of the sight lines end up with a small delicate and supremely painterly still life scene at the end of them.  It bustles but is never rushed or focused on anything but the customer.  The menu - handwritten on one page is a wonder of understatement about the fare.

The wine list is a conversation piece in itself - not least for price comparison - but I'm seldom drawn to so many wines out of a combination of both curiosity and value.  We ended up with this Renato Fenocchio, Barbaresco, DOCG 2009 to meet the challenge of our unpairable food choices ;-)

Spiced Cauliflower, Pomegranate and Labneh

LM: a delight of a dish - gorgeous vibrant colours, the cauliflower still had some crunch and worked beautifully with the creamy labneh and sharp pomegranate. Nice generous portion too.

Cornish Sardines, Harissa Sauce, Preserved Lemons and Coriander

SN: Nothing special about sardines you might think but i) they were fresh, ii) they were not over-cooked and iii) the flavourings were very nicely balanced.  Lovely surprise to find them on a menu and so well delivered.

The visual experience is an under appreciated part of of eating - not I think the dreary pattern making of new cuisinists but something harking back centuries of artistic endeavour to capture nature's bounty when it's ready to be consumed.  There's a measured fecundity about the plates, familiar visuals from a long time ago and a simplicity too.  It's very appealing.

Pavé of Venison, Tokyo Turnips, Beetroot and Walnuts

SN: My Pavé of Venison was the best venison I've tasted in a very long time (sorry Edwin's this was better!).  There's nothing complicated about enjoying good food done well when the starting point is such wonderful source materials.  I'll say no more but it would put all the steaks on all the menus in this postcode in the shade.  Tokyo turnips are a bit of a rarity on menus too but such a natural match for a robust meat.  The greens we ordered were floppy and shiny and full of goodness, greenness and a fantastic taste.

Risotto with Radicchio Trevisano, Chestnuts & Ricotta Salata

LM: The risotto was a thing of joy - no token veggie dish. Lovely and creamy with the radicchio giving it a good bite. I probably would have enjoyed my dessert a fraction more had the risotto been slightly smaller, but only have myself to blame for wading through the whole generous portion.

Bamboozled

I think perhaps the photo of LM tells you all you need to know about the quality of the pudding.  There was also an eloquent silence of concentrated appreciation...

Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream

SN: I had a selection of cheeses from Neal's Yard which were unnamed.  We finished up with some Pedro Ximenez and went out into the clear night air hoping we can go back again soon.  It was nice to get such a positive and confident from the kitchen when I popped down to thank them.  The whole place is busy, but not hassled, quality, but not full of itself and everywhere is beauty.

LM: One of the things I really appreciated about our visit was the honesty about table timings. We knew we had a two hour slot which made it so much easier to plan out courses and drinks. Service was rapid towards the end of the meal but I didn't feel hurried at any point, and our waiter was happy to advise on how long desserts would take. I can absolutely understand the need for maximum table times in a restaurant this small and the staff manage it brilliantly.

Overall

Top marks to Andrew Edmunds - not that they need them from us, but the meal couldn't have been bettered in a place that couldn't be more delightful.

Best bits: 

SN: For me I suspect much as I loved the food, it was the look and feel of the place.  It cares about what you see on the plate but way beyond too and I was just enchanted after the a tour. 

Summary

SN: When I say it's quintessentially English I mean that beyond our current preoccupation with the word.  It is a place full of history from Gillray to old Soho and it bridges those centuries with aplomb.  It is confident and straightforward in what it offers and does so with a nod to London long past.  I admire this singular and unsentimental vision: I've seldom felt so at home in a restaurant.

Rootdown - Take 2

***Note to our Esteemed Readers***

We are going to try some different formats for our blogs - please let us know what you like :-) L & S

Rootdown: http://rootdownlondon.com/#home

Why did we go? 

We've been here before - and not that long ago - read about that here.  We wanted to see how things were going because this place holds fast to the side that simple ingredients can make great dishes with care and ingenuity.

Rootdown is also one of the most adept social media savvy places we've visited.  It's all about their fantastic Facebook page - even down to our menu for the evening.  So go here - love the menu and 'like' the page.

https://www.facebook.com/rootdownldn?fref=ts

Where is it?

This time we took the train to Clapton (10 minutes from Liverpool Street); much better than the rush hour bus we suffered last time.  It's a 5-10 minute walk south from the station across the roundabout and behold, a garden of earthly delights. Hackney is on the up and there's a sense that this kind of place has to stay one step ahead of bars, restaurants. Happily it does so, thanks to the sense and creativity of those running it.

What is it like inside?

This has to be a versatile venue and Ben and Becca manage to alter the mood a lot with the lighting.  But it's as useful for a business brunch as it is for a romantic night out. And the music and the busy flow of dishes from the kitchen mean it has a feeling of purpose, but in that charming way they have, the bar is not a barrier but a workspace where more magic occurs.

Starters:

SN's Salmon & Octopus

LM's Burnt Goat's Cheese salad

LM: Burnt goats cheese salad with heritage tomatoes and leaves was a joy - really light, simple tastes but the charred texture and taste of the cheese really gave it something else. Gorgeous.

SN: my starter hit me with both barrels.  The home smoker now works at a prodigious rate on a range of items including the home made butter below.  The smoked salmon was wonderfully full flavour but without the oiliness which plagues commercial packs.  The Octopus Salami was thing of beauty but such a surprise.  Ingenuity showing through again.  And finally the caper berries sealed this treasure of a dish - try it while you can.

Drinks: 

Cocktails were essential to put the week behind us!

SN: I had a vibrant Amaretto Sours - which looked as gorgeous as it tasted. 

LM: I can't remember which cocktail I had (which may say as much about my week as the potency of the drink!) but it was delicious - sharp and refreshing and setting me up nicely for the meal to come.

For wine we went for the Pinot Noir Estate, Johan Vineyards, Oregon 2011 (US) - a lithe wine of great flavour and the depth to hold up against or main course flavours.

Service:  At the front of this house Becca moves between the tables with enthusiasm and all the gen on the marvellous food and the tricks of it's preparation.  It's lovely when there is a crowd in to see each table getting in the Rootdown vibe and having their tastebuds and curiosity engaged.  The staff here are well acquainted with each dish, each cocktail and all the wines.  The pace of service matches the relish and interest of the diners, time as so often in the best experiences seems to melt away.

As friends of Rootdown we're bound to be biased but it is a special feeling to go back and find their energy undiminished and the kitchen's latest miracle greeted with the same surprise and wonder by the staff and their customers.


Main Courses:

SN: My Lamb Chump tumbled over itself with exciting textures and tastes and mingled flavours.  The meat itself was divine, but the crab apple and tahini were surpassing neighbours.

This dish of beetroot upstaged the lot - needs to be sampled!

LM: I missed out on the dish of polenta with mushrooms and asparagus on my last visit so was excited to try it this time. Comfort food at its best, with lashings of parmesan to cut through the soft polenta and a fantastically light truffle oil to give it even more depth


Desserts:

SN: We are getting horribly addicted to this pudding - there will be weeping when it disappears.  It is just astonishing. Flourless chocolate cake - once tasted never forgotten :-)

Overall

Food quality, drinks and service 5/5
Ambience 5/5
Magic 6/5 (that's allowed cos it's magic)

Best Bit:

SN & LM: The whole menu was superb but we have to choose one thing.

This za'tar bread and home smoked butter - it's mind-blowing

Summary
We love Rootdown - they treat their customers as dinner guests and the kitchen tries so very hard to surprise us with foods we think we know: so far they have always intrigued and delighted us  It's up there with the most ingenious places we have visited and we'll look forward to going again.  Their food is special: the quality is high because they're determined to make their mark that way.  Their produce is worth all their efforts each dish has that defining feature.....even down to their own smoked butter (gorgeous)!

EDWINS

***Note to our Esteemed Readers***

We are going to try some different formats for our blogs - please let us know what you like :-) L & S

Edwins : http://edwinsborough.co.uk

Why did we go? LM picked up good things about Edwins from the social media.  SN: liked the reviews on Tripadvisor.  We were delighted to see that Edwins is also in the 2016 Good Food Guide.

Where is it? It's on Borough High Street a little way away from the bustle and extortion that goes on in and around Borough Market.

What's behind the name? Who is Edwin?: There's a sad history to this tribute to a man born nearly 170 years ago.  Edwin Brady started a collection of curiosities and the pub became The Hole in the Wall in 1883, the curiosities included risqué postcards which one customer found too much.  The sadness was that Edwin was refused a license and died in penury in 1906 of TB.  The Museum went to New Cross, the pub was renamed ten years ago.  But the restaurant and I like to think the enterprising spirit of Edwin remains embodied in this restaurant.

What is it like inside? Its quirky, like and expanded 1950s suburban dining room.  Plenty of room for the diners and lots of nice touches.

Starters: a nice range of small plates, well presented . My Colchester oyster was very tasty - much more so than many I've had in Soho. The girolle risotto was rich and fragrant. LM had a simple but very effective medley of tomato, beetroot and goat's curd - classic flavours beautifully presented.

Drinks: The cocktails were delicious and much more thrilling than the online menu suggests. LM had a citrusy cocktail which sharpened the appetite beautifully. The wine list was too good - a balance of wines of various styles and country of origin, and prices covered wide range. Now I check we ordered a 2011 Burgundy and got a 2012 - the wine was very good, but given the price hike on older wines I think it's important the customer gets what they order.

Service: It's easy to overlook service which is seamless.  But the staff were both discreet and yet somehow ever present (at least when we needed them).  Lovely people, nice responses to our expressions of interest and quick and unflustered.


Main Courses: Our large plates were accompanied with garlic mash and a bowl of greens which were very well done - with just a hint of olive oil on the mash and a vibrance to the greens.

SN: Venison was very tender and the accompaniments were very well balanced.  it was beautifully presented and I'm suddenly a big fan of shallot puree.

LM had grilled halloumi and duck egg on a celeriac hash - portion was possibly a bit too generous but delicious nonetheless.

Desserts: we were full and so shared a most divine dessert of a chocolate pudding with honeycomb ice cream.  Awesome paring and distinctly chocolatey.  SN also enjoyed their flavoursome coffee.

Overall

We'd give Edwins 5 out 5 stars for food, ambience, service and price.

Best Bit:

SN: The venison - so hard to get tender and flavoursome - delicious

LM: the candles

Summary 

A hidden gem without the pretensions of Borough Market but fine, simple ingredients cooked

well in the English style.  They have created homely surroundings with excellent table service and a marvellous tribute to the sad life of the curator of the Hole in the Wall museum of curiosities.

Out of Town: Salford - Face and Foot - An Offaly Good Night

Half of STB went out in Salford, SN writes

Chefs Richard and Mike served up a cornucopia of innards in Salford for one night only and I had a beautiful and adventurous Doctor with me to identify the parts...

This my first visit to a Face and Foot pop-up - I was very impressed.  These are ticket only events: single dates promoted mainly through Twitter.  Anyone in the North West who wants a fine dining experience on the edge should follow them @facefootfood  to keep in touch. 

This event was hosted at The Kitchens a fine facility for foodies and their chefs in Salford's Spinningfields district.  It's worth saying this type of event would have cost a good deal more in London and I dare say it would have been much less convivial.  The food was amazing but I wouldn't underplay the atmosphere our hosts create which added so much to the experience.  Rarely do LM and I get to chat to other diners in London (we once managed it at Galvin La Chapelle). We knew no one there at the start of this escapade - but soon the warm, friendly and very funny conversations gathered momentum and carried on all night (and onto Twitter too).  Interesting and interested people are all that are needed and we moved from Cilla Black to a Beatles Conspiracy Theory to working up a cheap and profitable Dragon's Den idea for putting unruly children to sleep (but not in the veterinary sense... I think....)

We were two of 14 diners and once assembled on one big table canteen style - we were away.

First up - a raw liver cocktail and a Tequila shot - though daunting the chilled liver, mixed with tomato and strawberry, was smooth and as approachable as a pate.  The shot was a good match.

Next up, tiny lamb's liver with mushrooms and sherry on crostini - absolutely delicious

The slider of ox heart tartare was full of flavour and gloriously meaty - truffle chips were quickly devoured.

The three soft tacos took us from lamb brain to pig cheeks via chicken hearts.  It may be giving you too much detail to say my main delight was matching the texture to the origin. Each had it's own glorious accompaniment and by this stage the wine, chatter and enthusiasm for the fare were in fullest flow.

Timely then that the chefs produced a pudding to lift the room to new heights.  Chocolate, blood and orange pudding - what was added in a very corporeal sense was body to the run of the mill mousse.  It had a persistence and flavour to bowl you over with every mouthful.  The Choc Chip and Bacon cookies are the 'take away and try at home' dish I think - texture was again a surprising component but sooooo satisfying.

The good doctor and I were euphoric (and I was driving so it wasn't the wine!) as we left - we summoned up enough energy to go dancing afterwards too.  Reminding us that offal is tasty and not too filling - not to mention the health benefits.

More to the point - this type of dining, in this type of setting proved a real game changer for me - as previous posts have shown - we are all over new restaurants and great chefs in London.  Manchester has a lot to offer too and dining canteen style adds so much more to the night.  Thanks to everyone who made it offaly good.

The tickets were £21 and the clever wine choices £10/bottle

Out of Town: The Damson, MediaCity, Salford

Damson Restaurant

Orange Building, 

MediaCityUK, 

Salford M50 2HF

http://mediacity.damsonrestaurant.co.uk

SN: I went with a couple of friends to The Damson overlooking the gardens at MediaCity in Salford the other day. Sadly I didn't take a camera so you'll have to do with descriptions of the excellent fare.

We were shown to our table - part of a range along a window maybe 25 yards long overlooking the gardens and Manchester Ship Canal quayside at MediaCity in the city of Salford (not to be subsumed into it's metropolitan neighbour Manchester.  The Quays developed as the northern home of the BBC and the Imperial War Museum as opened in 2011 and has soon become a favourite playground for the locals.  This independent restaurant was pleasingly full.  Our seats overlooked the view but there is also a large tabled private dining room and "a bar area" which is cosy and I imagine the place for quiet conversation - no tables were set there but it can be booked.

We were encourage dot go straight to our table but there was no attempt to sell us cocktails or an aperitif. I had to go and ask for a cocktail menu as I spent too long trying to attract the attention of the staff.  That said when it came the Peach Bellini was a nice enough way to kick things off - rather plain both in presentation and taste though.

Our visit coincided with a change in the menu - we felt the main courses had come a bit less adventurous but the starters had the three of us musing on choice.  

After nice bread and salty, whipped butter, I started with Kataifi foie gras, szechuan poached peaches & toasted almonds.  This was divine combination - the katafi pastry - so often the Greek dessert of choice, was a rich and crunchy back drop to the rich baked foie gras.  The pate supported in a basket of the pastry accompanied with gently spice peaches and toasted almonds - there was a drizzle of honey involved too.  The richness and the sweetness were great in the same mouthful.  The greasiness of the foie gras remains on the plate and I think that's a bit of an oversight.

Our wine was a Rosé to cope with our wide ranging menu choices.  The wine list is varied and very well stocked at the lower and medium price range though a little light at the top end.  We had the Cinsault/Tribouren/Mourvedre/Grenache, Domaine Rimauresq Cru Classe, Cotes de Provence, France 2011/12 (though I think we had something a little younger)

Whilst my fellow diners had plaice and duck respectively, I struggled to choose: I took this as a good sign! Eventually I opted for a seaside/hillside combination of Lamb rump cooked sous vide, seashore vegetables, clams, lamb broth, confit garlic foam.  It came in a big dish with a deep centre - four uniform cubes of lamb covered in vibrant green young samphire and surrounded by broth which was cooking the meat a little more.  Around one quarter of the dish a swirl of garlic foam added more to the presentation and taste.  The lamb was uniformly cooked and though I would have ordered it somewhat rarer in other circumstances, it was magnificent and wonderfully counterpointed once more by the calms and samphire.  The celeriac didn't really do much truth be told, perhaps something punchier would have added more.

Desserts followed with recommendations for matched wines.  I eschewed the prescribed Gewurtztraminer and substituted a Monbazillac to accompany Vanilla & mango cheesecake, lychee sorbet, pina colada sphere. The none too subtle but so enticing aroma and taste of the wine may have dented the punch of the cheese cake a bit but I loved this sweet - lychee sorbet was also perfumed and the mysterious globule on the spoon when the dish arrived whilst not spherical was certainly pina colada.  This little coup de theatre was very good and vividly set the palate up for the dessert.

Not to be left curious I also had a glass of Pedro Ximenez with a coffee.

All told this meal presented really good value: in London it would have cost half as much again.  Exciting foods and a lovely range of drinks. The service was understated and after a while friendly at the table.  When I went on an explore and said hi and thank you to the kitchen staff: there was a hesitant acknowledgement but no more.  I think kitchen staff at whatever level should be talking to their customers.  It's a shame when they are hidden away from those of us who enjoy the fruits of out labours.  There is something a bit mechanical about the staffing at this restaurant - missing a chance to engage with the dinner.  They might have sold me another dessert, they certainly wouldn't have sold me any cocktails had I not asked.  Engaging your customers is more then a perfect looking but empty smile - there could have been more of that.

Rootdown

237 Lower Clapton Road

Hackney

London

E5 8EG

0207 686 6080

http://rootdownlondon.com/#home

We are slightly behind in our blogger but Rootdown became a pressing priority after a night there last week.  The bloggers we read are spreading the word about this place opposite Clapton Pond and rightly so.  We were amazed.  Rootdown takes us a little further out but is worth a journey of ten times the distance to sample its unique flavour and style.

Siblings Becca and Ben Scales opened the place recently; it's unprepossessing and has the air of a quirky bar cum diner. This is a seriously good dining experience worth of a top quality eatery, but it manages also to be the kind of place where people will pop in for cocktails on a Friday night accompanied by a delicious soundtrack.  The decor is restrained, the elbow room is plentiful and the service is quick, cheery and informative.

I don't tend to look a menus but LM had been planning our visit and targeting the chickpea doughnuts with zeal.  There was some small dismay (swearing) when Rootdown changed the menu the day we got there.  In the end something more fascinating was on the menu but it will change again.  On that basis look at the menu if you want to know what's what - but also look at the website because it is a great example of how to present your restaurant and its wares.

I chose an Austrian red from Muhr van der Niepoort, Sydhang 2011 which proved to be suitably flexible for our starters and mains and like everything at Rootdown the price was not outrageous.  The real story of the night unfolded from the moment we tried to decide on cocktails....

Chilli Pear Caprioska

LM: I kicked off with a chilli pear cocktail, not a combination I would have immediately thought of but as it turned out fantastically well matched flavours. There was just enough chilli kick for me - apparently the recipe has been toned down recently for being a bit too hot - great to see a bar taking on feedback so willingly.

Mozzarella, cucumber, mint and peach

My starter was simple but divine - generous chunks of fresh mozzarella with peach, cucumber and olive oil dressing. No need to do anything fancy with seasoning when the produce is this fresh and tasty - they'd got the peaches absolutely perfect, firm without being under. Fantastic dish.

Shredded beetroot, zata'ar labneh, black onion seeds, caraway.

SN: The bold colour of this starter as you approach the plate is soon confused by the subtle complexity of the taste and fragrance and texture.  Beetroot - another roof our under-rated veg - is a delicately sweet carrier for the tastes of shoots and the crunch of the caraway and black onion seeds.  The fuzzy mix of flavours in the zata'ar adds a depth and the smooth labneh contrasting texture.  Delightful.

Broccoli tops, freekah, burnt lemon, tahini yogurt, soft boiled egg and pomegranate molasses.

LM: I was torn between main courses - the other option was a slightly safer sounding polenta with mushrooms - but I'm glad I went for the more unusual option! Again the elements were cooked to perfection, the broccoli still had enough bite, and the egg was a really interesting addition to the meal. I was a little dubious about the burnt lemon (with egg?!) but it was smoky enough to add a really subtle depth of flavour to the rest of the dish.

Onglet steak, Janssons Temptation, watercress Cafe de Paris Butter

SN: I'm still on a wave of delight from this main - so much so I tried to make the potato dish myself this weekend.  My attempt was lacklustre compared to Rootdown's effort and demonstrated just how much care they had put in - adding a crunchy exterior to the blocks of layered potato and onion speckled with anchovy and baked in cream. I would, ordinarily steer clear of some of the typical tastes in Scandinavian cooking, but this was out of the world.  The thread ran through to the Café de Paris Butter (garlic, anchovies, capers and herbs in the classic recipe).  Onglet steak is steak at it's best - I love its texture and flavour - no wonder butchers used to keep this steak for themselves.  All together this was a mighty offering - not too heavy though - full of flavour, richly rewarding and remarkably straightforward though difficult to bring off as well as Rootdown do it.

In a remarkable tribute to Rootdown and Becca's skills selling the menu, I decided on two Desserts...

Flourless Chocolate Cake, crème fraiche, cherry compote

SN: I should probably leave LM to describe this - her face as she took the first bite of flourless chocolate cake probably paints sufficient of a picture....

LM: I think the pictures say it all - quite possibly the best chocolate cake I've ever had - rich, gooey, dense and full of flavour - I was very close to ordering a second portion despite being full to bursting at this point.

SN: LM helped me with our extra dessert - a cheese of glorious flavour, rich and golden and superb silk texture.  Mrs Kirkham and her family come from three generations of cheesemakers and the farm near Goosnargh in Lancashire is doing something special.  Rootdown's generous portions helped us end the meal in style.  A gorgeous flavoursome chutney balanced the plate and sourdough as transport of delight.

Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire, chutney and toast

It's quite simple really: great service, great wine & cocktails and simply amazing food delivered with flair.  I really feel (and felt as soon as I saw the menu) that this place is rooted in the simple aim of allowing people to eat and drink well at a very reasonable price. With drinks and three and a half courses our bill was just over £50 each.

Their attention to detail and balance is superb but not fussy: for example the cherries match the astounding flourless chocolate cake perfectly - not too sweet, not cloying, some welcome texture and visual appeal. 

Cocktails are sophisticated but not overblown - we could have spent all night working our way down the list.  The wine list is bold and confident (rightly so) those with set expectations might have to think a bit or take advice but there are gems there.  The service was a key component, Becca made us feel very welcome and right at home.  The staff are friendly, attentive and down to earth. We loved it here - not least because LM had so many choices of vegetarian dishes which we hold in as high regard as they do.

Mouth watering dishes, satisfying platefuls where one should no fear of trying something different - something for everyone and you are in safe hands. We have been to some swell restaurants this year already but this is the best restaurant I've been to all year.