Showing posts with label Soho. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soho. Show all posts

Saturday, 9 January 2016

Andrew Edmunds

Andrew Edmunds
46 Lexington Street
London, W1F 0LP
0207437 5708





SN: Andrew Edmunds is a very well known and much loved restaurant on Lexington Street right under the "SOHO" stamp on Google Maps. It describes itself as part of old Soho and feels like it - the building is 18th century with a tiny door that I mistook for a window .  It was established in 1986 - which makes it ancient compared to many of the businesses in that area.  It is gratifyingly simple and beautiful in so many ways.  Simple in terms of layout, dishes, wine list and attention to it's customers, beautiful in execution of the food, the manners of the staff and in that so many of the sight lines end up with a small delicate and supremely painterly still life scene at the end of them.  It bustles but is never rushed or focused on anything but the customer.  The menu - handwritten on one page is a wonder of understatement about the fare.

The wine list is a conversation piece in itself - not least for price comparison - but I'm seldom drawn to so many wines out of a combination of both curiosity and value.  We ended up with this Renato Fenocchio, Barbaresco, DOCG 2009 to meet the challenge of our unpairable food choices ;-)


Spiced Cauliflower, Pomegranate and Labneh
LM: a delight of a dish - gorgeous vibrant colours, the cauliflower still had some crunch and worked beautifully with the creamy labneh and sharp pomegranate. Nice generous portion too.

Cornish Sardines, Harissa Sauce, Preserved Lemons and Coriander
SN: Nothing special about sardines you might think but i) they were fresh, ii) they were not over-cooked and iii) the flavourings were very nicely balanced.  Lovely surprise to find them on a menu and so well delivered.

The visual experience is an under appreciated part of of eating - not I think the dreary pattern making of new cuisinists but something harking back centuries of artistic endeavour to capture nature's bounty when it's ready to be consumed.  There's a measured fecundity about the plates, familiar visuals from a long time ago and a simplicity too.  It's very appealing.

Pavé of Venison, Tokyo Turnips, Beetroot and Walnuts
SN: My Pavé of Venison was the best venison I've tasted in a very long time (sorry Edwin's this was better!).  There's nothing complicated about enjoying good food done well when the starting point is such wonderful source materials.  I'll say no more but it would put all the steaks on all the menus in this postcode in the shade.  Tokyo turnips are a bit of a rarity on menus too but such a natural match for a robust meat.  The greens we ordered were floppy and shiny and full of goodness, greenness and a fantastic taste.

Risotto with Radicchio Trevisano, Chestnuts & Ricotta Salata
LM: The risotto was a thing of joy - no token veggie dish. Lovely and creamy with the radicchio giving it a good bite. I probably would have enjoyed my dessert a fraction more had the risotto been slightly smaller, but only have myself to blame for wading through the whole generous portion.


Bamboozled
I think perhaps the photo of LM tells you all you need to know about the quality of the pudding.  There was also an eloquent silence of concentrated appreciation...
Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream

SN: I had a selection of cheeses from Neal's Yard which were unnamed.  We finished up with some Pedro Ximenez and went out into the clear night air hoping we can go back again soon.  It was nice to get such a positive and confident from the kitchen when I popped down to thank them.  The whole place is busy, but not hassled, quality, but not full of itself and everywhere is beauty.

LM: One of the things I really appreciated about our visit was the honesty about table timings. We knew we had a two hour slot which made it so much easier to plan out courses and drinks. Service was rapid towards the end of the meal but I didn't feel hurried at any point, and our waiter was happy to advise on how long desserts would take. I can absolutely understand the need for maximum table times in a restaurant this small and the staff manage it brilliantly.


Overall
Top marks to Andrew Edmunds - not that they need them from us, but the meal couldn't have been bettered in a place that couldn't be more delightful.

Best bits: 
SN: For me I suspect much as I loved the food, it was the look and feel of the place.  It cares about what you see on the plate but way beyond too and I was just enchanted after the a tour. 

Summary
SN: When I say it's quintessentially English I mean that beyond our current preoccupation with the word.  It is a place full of history from Gillray to old Soho and it bridges those centuries with aplomb.  It is confident and straightforward in what it offers and does so with a nod to London long past.  I admire this singular and unsentimental vision: I've seldom felt so at home in a restaurant.

Thursday, 30 January 2014

Moti Mahal, Soho

It bears repeating that we do a certain amount of research to ensure we are going to good places and will get a good story to tell you as 1) everyone likes to be enthused and 2) it supports an excellence agenda we believe in.  It might read that these blogs are a celebration of our impeccable taste - that's not our intention.  As you see below not everything we touch turns to gold….

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SN: Moti Mahal is on the edges of Soho just off Kingsway in a place where the streets are broad and the buildings portentous.  It occupies two floors and the decor is restrained with flowers in plentiful supply and neat white tablecloths on all the tables.  Downstairs there's semicircular booths against the walls that are plush and well cushioned and low backed chairs around the rest of the table that could probably seat 6 at a push….etcetera

We arrived 20 minutes early - our coats were taken by the helpful receptionist and I asked if we could sit at the bar until our table was ready, at which point we were taken downstairs…and shown straight to a table, a table set for three, with settings too far apart for us to sit closely enough to talk.  The drill is that Lou usually makes from the plush upholstery and I joined her on this occassion - the waiters made no attempt to move the place settings. And so began an evening of delays, misunderstandings, delays, confusion, delays and dismay.  At the end of the meal, even the card machine wouldn't work either.  I don't intend to dwell on every incident but this was the worst service we've encountered in our years of dining together. And I didn't pay the service charge so I'd say we're quits.

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LM: After too long a wait (near on twenty minutes), we recieved our cocktails which were delicious when they finally appeared.

Accompanying this was a plate of DIY salad with one knife and a selection of spices. In fairness it's an interesting gimmick and turns out that radish in garam masala dressing is delicious, but a bit more of a deft touch in presentation would have been welcome; it's somewhat unexpected to be faced with an entire onion as a starter. SN: or for that matter a green chilli.  That said I like this idea - it is at least pious grazing. My cocktail was a thyme vodka mojito - splendid.

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LM: It's a real shame about the poor service because for me the food was very good across the board. The menu is divided into sections: 'Begin your Journey', 'Tandoori', 'The Main Stop' with prices rising accordingly. Maybe we should have clarified but my assumption was that a starter would come first, then tandoori, then the main course.

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As it happened, Wagamama style, dishes came at random times and without any clear idea of when they were next going to turn up. Fine if you are expecting that but I hovered anxiously over my tandoori paneer wondering whether to dig in or wait. In the end greed (SN: hunger surely)] won out and I dug in; the paneer was soft, salty and buttery, with a nice smoke from the tandoori spices and not too much heat. I'm not sure I could taste the fennel but it was a beautiful plate of food and very generous in terms of portion size.

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Starters arrived before we were even halfway through our tandoori course leading to more confusion; I had sweet potato cake with charoli nut, cumin and ginger with a gooseberry chutney which had lovely flavours, particularly the gooseberry chutney which I'd never have thought to match with sweet potato, but suffered for being a little oily. Still, the sweet potato had bite to it and a nice crispy coating.

It's worth noting at this point that the wine we'd ordered with our starter/tandoori still hadn't turned up! We flagged down a waiter who nodded, smiled and then went and stood behind the bar having clearly not heard or understood us. 

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SN: My dish from the tandoor was lamb chops and very tasty they were too.  I'd hoped they wouldn't be bland and over-cooked and they were just how I like them, tasty, pink in the middle with a modicum of fat to add to a dazzling but not too fiery taste/texture thing. The presentation could have been improved though and I am not picky about how food looks. The accompanying avocado chutney should have made a little more impact than it did - slightly aggressive when it could have been cooler.


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After a while, most things in this special downstairs time zone seem to take a while, the starter arrived - a simple fish dish.  A palm leaf parcel of Sea Bass fillet covered in rich fragrant crab meat.  Its a heady combination - but there was unity in the strong spiced crab and gentle succulent mullet - would have gone rather nicely with the salad had we not eating it all (in the wait). 

 


LM: My main was the Gucchi Mutter; fresh morels and garden peas in a yoghurt and saffron sauce. Very tasty, with fresh peas (that shouldn't need to be commented on, but sadly does - I've had stale, from-frozen peas far too many times since moving here) and wonderful spicing in the sauce. Again, very generous portion size. We ordered raita and rice as sides, all of which arrived together which was a pleasant surprise.


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SN: The raita was delightful rich and still refreshing, it was creamy and cucumbery (is that a word Lou?) without those limp chunks one often encounters.  A wonderful touch.  My Goat curry - now off the menu, like the Mullet and Crab - was a fantastic reminder of the rich deep flavours that are hot but not all about the hot.  The meat was tender and tasty and all I needed was the rice to match the rich and rewarding combination.

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Novel approach to hand towels

Fortunately a man came with a small teapot to water the towels before we used them - they expanded in no special hurry.

Uniquely we both decided against dessert.

Our wine on this evening to forget was a very pleasent Rioja.