Rootdown

237 Lower Clapton Road

Hackney

London

E5 8EG

0207 686 6080

http://rootdownlondon.com/#home

We are slightly behind in our blogger but Rootdown became a pressing priority after a night there last week.  The bloggers we read are spreading the word about this place opposite Clapton Pond and rightly so.  We were amazed.  Rootdown takes us a little further out but is worth a journey of ten times the distance to sample its unique flavour and style.

Siblings Becca and Ben Scales opened the place recently; it's unprepossessing and has the air of a quirky bar cum diner. This is a seriously good dining experience worth of a top quality eatery, but it manages also to be the kind of place where people will pop in for cocktails on a Friday night accompanied by a delicious soundtrack.  The decor is restrained, the elbow room is plentiful and the service is quick, cheery and informative.

I don't tend to look a menus but LM had been planning our visit and targeting the chickpea doughnuts with zeal.  There was some small dismay (swearing) when Rootdown changed the menu the day we got there.  In the end something more fascinating was on the menu but it will change again.  On that basis look at the menu if you want to know what's what - but also look at the website because it is a great example of how to present your restaurant and its wares.

I chose an Austrian red from Muhr van der Niepoort, Sydhang 2011 which proved to be suitably flexible for our starters and mains and like everything at Rootdown the price was not outrageous.  The real story of the night unfolded from the moment we tried to decide on cocktails....

Chilli Pear Caprioska

LM: I kicked off with a chilli pear cocktail, not a combination I would have immediately thought of but as it turned out fantastically well matched flavours. There was just enough chilli kick for me - apparently the recipe has been toned down recently for being a bit too hot - great to see a bar taking on feedback so willingly.

Mozzarella, cucumber, mint and peach

My starter was simple but divine - generous chunks of fresh mozzarella with peach, cucumber and olive oil dressing. No need to do anything fancy with seasoning when the produce is this fresh and tasty - they'd got the peaches absolutely perfect, firm without being under. Fantastic dish.

Shredded beetroot, zata'ar labneh, black onion seeds, caraway.

SN: The bold colour of this starter as you approach the plate is soon confused by the subtle complexity of the taste and fragrance and texture.  Beetroot - another roof our under-rated veg - is a delicately sweet carrier for the tastes of shoots and the crunch of the caraway and black onion seeds.  The fuzzy mix of flavours in the zata'ar adds a depth and the smooth labneh contrasting texture.  Delightful.

Broccoli tops, freekah, burnt lemon, tahini yogurt, soft boiled egg and pomegranate molasses.

LM: I was torn between main courses - the other option was a slightly safer sounding polenta with mushrooms - but I'm glad I went for the more unusual option! Again the elements were cooked to perfection, the broccoli still had enough bite, and the egg was a really interesting addition to the meal. I was a little dubious about the burnt lemon (with egg?!) but it was smoky enough to add a really subtle depth of flavour to the rest of the dish.

Onglet steak, Janssons Temptation, watercress Cafe de Paris Butter

SN: I'm still on a wave of delight from this main - so much so I tried to make the potato dish myself this weekend.  My attempt was lacklustre compared to Rootdown's effort and demonstrated just how much care they had put in - adding a crunchy exterior to the blocks of layered potato and onion speckled with anchovy and baked in cream. I would, ordinarily steer clear of some of the typical tastes in Scandinavian cooking, but this was out of the world.  The thread ran through to the Café de Paris Butter (garlic, anchovies, capers and herbs in the classic recipe).  Onglet steak is steak at it's best - I love its texture and flavour - no wonder butchers used to keep this steak for themselves.  All together this was a mighty offering - not too heavy though - full of flavour, richly rewarding and remarkably straightforward though difficult to bring off as well as Rootdown do it.

In a remarkable tribute to Rootdown and Becca's skills selling the menu, I decided on two Desserts...

Flourless Chocolate Cake, crème fraiche, cherry compote

SN: I should probably leave LM to describe this - her face as she took the first bite of flourless chocolate cake probably paints sufficient of a picture....

LM: I think the pictures say it all - quite possibly the best chocolate cake I've ever had - rich, gooey, dense and full of flavour - I was very close to ordering a second portion despite being full to bursting at this point.

SN: LM helped me with our extra dessert - a cheese of glorious flavour, rich and golden and superb silk texture.  Mrs Kirkham and her family come from three generations of cheesemakers and the farm near Goosnargh in Lancashire is doing something special.  Rootdown's generous portions helped us end the meal in style.  A gorgeous flavoursome chutney balanced the plate and sourdough as transport of delight.

Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire, chutney and toast

It's quite simple really: great service, great wine & cocktails and simply amazing food delivered with flair.  I really feel (and felt as soon as I saw the menu) that this place is rooted in the simple aim of allowing people to eat and drink well at a very reasonable price. With drinks and three and a half courses our bill was just over £50 each.

Their attention to detail and balance is superb but not fussy: for example the cherries match the astounding flourless chocolate cake perfectly - not too sweet, not cloying, some welcome texture and visual appeal. 

Cocktails are sophisticated but not overblown - we could have spent all night working our way down the list.  The wine list is bold and confident (rightly so) those with set expectations might have to think a bit or take advice but there are gems there.  The service was a key component, Becca made us feel very welcome and right at home.  The staff are friendly, attentive and down to earth. We loved it here - not least because LM had so many choices of vegetarian dishes which we hold in as high regard as they do.

Mouth watering dishes, satisfying platefuls where one should no fear of trying something different - something for everyone and you are in safe hands. We have been to some swell restaurants this year already but this is the best restaurant I've been to all year.